Watlington to Wallingford: This section mostly continues to follow the spring line below the chalk escarpment, traversing several of the foothills. There are other hints of the old stone road running east west. The final section turns abruptly west via the enigmatic Grim’s Ditch to reach the River Thames at Wallingford.
Maps: OS Explorer 171 Chiltern Hills West. Link to OS maps showing route for days 3 and 4.
Length: 11 miles/17.5 km.
Difficulty: Some steep hill climbs in the first half. Mostly dry paths but could be muddy in some areas in winter.
Getting there and away
Assumes start after an overnight stay in Watlington, but there are options for buses from Oxford (about an hour by bus 11 – Oxford Bus Co timetable).
Cholsey station on the Great Western railway from London Paddington to Bristol is 10 minutes from Wallingford by bus 136 from the market square, stop C, or an additional 2 mile walk.
Accommodation
There are several pubs with rooms and other accommodation if you prefer to stay over, including the Town Arms, the George Hotel and the Royal. There is also a camping and caravan park just across the river at Bridge Villa.
Along the way
Earthwork on Swyncombe Downs: This, a deep hollow way running along the high contour, has a similar profile to Grim’s Ditch and probably represents an ancient track, maybe one route of the old Ridgeway. Swyncombe Downs itself is a SSSI.
Swyncombe: This tiny settlement has a grand Victorian house, hidden from view but with an ornamental park, and a church, St Botolphs, (photo below) that was probably pre-Norman (but heavily restored). Interesting that St Botolph was the patron saint of travellers so perhaps there is a hidden link to the Ridgeway: there were chapels dedicated to him at four of London’s city gates.
Nuffield: The National Trust property Nuffield Place was the home of William Morris, the car manufacturer and a great philanthropist. Further on in the village is another fine early church.
Grim’s Ditch: (picture at top) The route includes a 3+ mile stretch of this earthwork going almost due west towards the Thames at Wallingford. Though the nature of Grim’s Ditch is often argued about – is it a defensive structure or a trackway? – the first option doesn’t make much sense here. For the first mile it is a deep cutting up to 3m deep and 6m wide on the flank of a hill to the right; then of similar dimensions on the flank of the hill to the left, so which side is it protecting? Then the final raised section about 1.5m-2m high, seems more like a causeway than providing a major barrier. through the open muddy or marshy ground. Surely this section of Grim’s Ditch/Dyke is a route to the river ford from the high scarp Ridgeway.
Directions
Return the same way to the Ridgeway; or from the market building go west down Couching St, right into Brook St about a hundred yards, left into the very narrow passage, follow this round and then across a field, then left following the hedged path then left again.
Now on a wide grass path past Willow Pond follow the field edge to the end, then follow the track to the right past a shelter belt of trees. Now rejoin the Ridgeway (1.5 miles/2.5 km) passing Ridge farm.
After about a mile, take the left turn up the hill past a stone barn. The footpath along the edge of another shelter belt rises towards the hill and continues into woods. The path cuts through an earthwork (3 miles/5 km) then continues to the brow and then a long descent with fields on the left. A shorter rise goes past the old rectory and church at Swyncombe (3.75 miles/6 km).
Pass the ornamental park of Swyncombe House. Soon after there is a turning left up a steep hill through recently cleared woods. Follow the path round to a stables and Ewelme House (4.75 miles/7.5 km). Continue on a narrow winding path through woods then out over a huge open field (many loose flint ankle turners!). Climb through the small wood to the main road. Across and to the right is a craft centre, the Maker Space, with a cafe (6 miles/9.5 km).
The path now curves left past a few houses and onto a golf course. Cross this on the clearly marked route until you reach Nuffield church (6.5 miles/10.5 km). Go right along the road a short distance then left, to the start of a section of Grim’s Ditch (6.8 miles/11 km). Follow this ancient feature for over three miles. At the end drop down to the very busy A4074 (10 miles/16 km). Cross over and to the right, enter a path through the wood. After a few hundred yards the Ridgeway route turns left. At this point turn right under a road bridge and continue through the farmyard.
Soon after the gate, take the footpath left down to the river and walk along to the old bridge at Wallingford . Cross the bridge and follow the road, then left into narrow St Mary St, which leads to the market square (11 miles/17.5 km).
Breaking the walk
At the point where the route crosses the A4130 at Gangsdown Hill is the Maker Space, a local crafts centre with an excellent licensed cafe and a lovely garden. They also run a food truck at Nuffield House. An ideal half way stop off point.