Chiseldon to Avebury: This section of the walk, the last of the official Ridgeway trail, takes us deeper into a prehistoric landscape, with evidence of occupation going back to the neolithic, culminating with the spectacular survival of the major henge at Avebury.
Maps: OS Explorer 170 Vale of the White Horse and 157 Marlborough and Savernake Forest. Days 9 and 10 route on OSmaps.
Length: 10 miles/16 km
Difficulty: Mostly gentle rolling hills, with one steep climb. Some of the later stages are on rough/uneven chalk paths that can be slippery after rain.
Getting there and away
Chiselton has an hourly bus service from Swindon bus terminal at Fleming Way, near the rail station (X5 hourly to Chiseldon Butts Road: timetable and a less frequent bus to the village centre 80: timetable).
It is assumed you will overnight in Avebury (there is plenty to see) but there are fairly frequent buses to Swindon and Marlborough (for onward to Salisbury).
Along the way
The old Ridgeway: This stretch going west from Chiselton was the route long known as the Ridgeway before the national trail was established. It passes a few farms and then dwindles into a drovers’ road.
Barbury ‘Castle’: A large hill fort from about 500BC, a fine double walled example. one of a string along the ridge in prominent positions like this one. On the slope below are clearly visible field boundaries which may be almost as old.
By Geotrekker72 – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=38006112
Hackpen Hill White Horse: one of eight white horses in the area cut into the chalk, this one was done for Queen Victoria’s coronation and seems to be popular with local horses!
Grey Wethers/Sarsen fields: Extraordinary area of blocks spread over a vast area. The sarsens are sandstone, originally formed as a hard crust soil layer subject to acidic leaching; broken up and embedded in the glaciers that came this far south; then dumped as they melted.
Herepath or Green Street: Herepath is Saxon for Army Path, so their equivalent of the Roman military roads. Known later as Green Street, this was once the main route from London to Bath, via Avebury, but now just a grassy/chalky track.
Avebury speaks for itself. It seems to have been an alternative centre of power from Stonehenge, started later with building evident from around 3000 to 2400 BC. It is on a vast scale and its survival speaks to its importance in folk memory through many cultures and populations. The 16th century manor house, run by the National Trust is very fine with elaborate outbuildings; and some very quirky cottages and the Red Lion pub complete the picture.
Directions
From the centre of Chiseldon take the old railway footpath to the road called The Ridgeway, by the Three Trees farm shop. Follow this west. This is the historic line of the Ridgeway, whereas the national trail now goes along the ridge. Where the road turns south towards Ogbourne St George (1.3 miles/2 km), instead continue ahead. The road dwindles down to eventually a track. Continue on this to Burderop Down, then climb the steep road (3 miles/5 km) to the Ridgeway national trail. This takes you through Barbury Castle then along the ridge of Hackpen Hill and past its White Horse figure (5.5 miles/9 km). At 6.5 miles/10.5 km the White Horse trail (which joined this route earlier) goes slightly left but the Ridgeway continues through a dog leg right. Follow this as far as the major track known as Herepath or Green Street (8.5 miles/13.5 km). It is worth following this left down the hill for about half a mile to see the sarsen field (see above: this adds about half a mile each way, but is highly recommended). Then return and follow the Herepath all the way into Avebury.
Alternative routes (shown in sketch plan)
You could follow more of the Ridgeway national trail by first following the footpath along the old railway, running south, just west of the A436, to Ogbourne St George. There go along the High Street to the end, where you meet a T junction (sp Ridgeway). Right then soon left to follow the Ridgeway on the flank of the scarp to Upper Herdswick Farm. Cross the road and continue to Barbury Castle, rejoining the route above. This adds about 4 miles/6.5 km. An intermediate alternative is to follow the Sarsen Way from where it crosses the railway path – this adds only a mile to the route.
If you do not want to explore Barbury Castle (and to avoid the steep hill) continue along the national trail which continues just a short distance up the road, then on the flank of the hill. This reduces the route by about 0.4 miles/0.6 km.
The route shown in the sketch plan follows the Ridgeway as it nears Avebury, except for the spur to visit the sarsen fields. However, here is a more complicated route (but no further) giving a much clearer understanding of the extent of the sarsens: in detail, follow the White Horse trail where it splits from the Ridgeway at 6.5 miles/10.5 km. Follow this across a gated track and into a small wood. Half way through is a junction with a footpath to the right, then out into an open field with sarsens everywhere. The path ahead is unclear but find a gate ahead of you in the fence line, and continue to the bottom right corner of the next field, where you can get on to the Herepath, then continue west to Avebury.
Breaking the walk
No real opportunity, so head to the Three Trees cafe and farm shop at Chiselton and pick up something for a picnic. The beech copse just before the White Horse at Hackpen Hill makes a good spot to stop, or sit above the hill figure itself and admire the wide view. There were friendly real horses there when I visited (see the picture above). You have the comfort of knowing the Red Lion (below) awaits you on arriving in Avebury.
Accommodation
If you prefer an overnight at Chiseldon before starting this section there are hotels there and in nearby Swindon: see Day 8.
Accommodation at Avebury is very limited but it is quite well served by buses back to Swindon or to nearby Marlborough. Dorwyn Manor, half a mile on the road north out of Avebury is a charming B&B that has been operated for over 10 years, has spotless and comfortable rooms and an ample breakfast (the downside for walkers is that it is a narrow and very busy road). The National Trust also has some cottages if you want to stay longer.